The People

On a Transatlantic cruise with nine days at sea, you have time to meet people.  In the early morning, I often met Barbara or Jackie.  Barbara was a retired nurse, and Jackie was on holiday from northern England.  I played an old card game I hadn’t played in years with some lovely people who also taught us to play a game with dominoes.   We made a few friends we hope to stay in touch with, and caught up with some old friends I’m blessed to know.   We saw new sights and met a few characters.  Karen had fun dancing at the opening party, too.

It’s All About the Ship

The Bliss did not disappoint.  She is beautiful with a lovely observation lounge on the 15th deck and scenic views above on the 16th, all along The Garden Cafe.  We were spoiled by a special cruise, a maiden voyage with half the passengers and a top rated crew on a shiny, new ship.  The crossing was so still at one point that the ocean resembled a lake.  It was both delightful and terrifying at the same time.  We heard crew members claim that even after over 100 crossings, this one was calmer than anyone had ever seen.   But there were also several days of fog when the warm waters of the Gulf stream merged with the cold air hovering over the Atlantic, and once or twice, though not very often, you could feel the rocking of the waves and hear the wind.

No one seemed worried about the weather though mild temperatures kept most folks from experiencing the pool.  I spent countless hours staring at the water and was occasionally rewarded by sighting dolphin.   Our friend, Duane, saw a small shark swimming casually around on the calmest day at sea, and folks were muttering about a whale sighting one afternoon in the observation lounge.   Even with the wave watching and the napping and the reading in the chaise, there was always time to eat; and I think the chef’s were showing off a bit, too, because the food was better than average cruise cuisine.  There was more food than I’ve ever seen displayed at one time, and it all looked fresh and delicious.  If you had any dietary concerns–not to worry.  The service on the Bliss was spectacular.  Teams of people worked together to provide daily abundance and smiling, personalized service.  They also served real lobster for lunch one Sunday, and just a day or so before, they served big grilled prawns–delicious with fresh squeezed lemon.  Carrying my third plate of lobster claws to our table, I thought I may actually have died and gone to heaven.  I am still alive though there is undoubtedly more of me to love after twelve days of feasting at sea.

Our friends never took the elevator.  They promised to use only the stairs, noble souls that they were.  Karen was also very good about taking the stairs and walking every day.  I walked on the jogging path and let the occasional runner go around me.  There was lots of room on an under-booked, maiden voyage.   We felt blessed and highly favored!

Onto The Ship

The train from London to Southampton was easy to navigate.  We bought our tickets the day before and checked out our route.  The last thing you want to do is miss the ship.  We met Duane and Nick on the train, and they knew exactly where they were going.  Indeed, they were heading to The Bliss too, and we all became fast friends.

London

From York to London on the train and to a neighborhood full of character–Seven Dials, where the only hotel on the street awaited us.  They are renovating and putting in an elevator, so I won’t bother to talk about the murderous Victorian staircase.  The price was right, and my friend was very forgiving–even when the dust from the comforter nearly took her out.  Mostly, it was clean and the bathroom was almost large enough to navigate.  It did inspire a lighter diet.  And we always knew when it was one a.m. because that’s when the bottles are recycled on Monmouth Street.

Fortunately, we were within walking distance of The Crypt at St. Martin of the Fields, where the food was lovely and quite a bargain.  It sustained us while we walked the streets of London.

The Queen’s Friends and Her Tulips

The black swans and Beefeaters and the castle and the nice ship and the crown jewels…  The Queen’s job does come with a few perks, but the responsibilities must feel endless.  Poor Dear deserves a good cup of tea at the end of the day.  We had our tea at Harrod’s. Did you know you may buy a Porsche there too?

 

 

 

Historic Beauty: York

Walkable and full of surprises, York rolls up the sidewalks early, but the people are lovely and so is the view.   Train travel from Edinburgh to York is easy.  In fact, travel by train in the UK is much easier and more convenient than here at home.  Why?  I suppose there are a number of factors; we certainly got a later start on the idea of public transportation.  We walked to the station and found seats easily.  A smooth and scenic ride along the coast of England will get you from Edinburgh to York in about two and a half hours, and you will not be disappointed by the ride or the destination. Our train timing was perfect for viewing green meadows full of sweet baby lambs.

Once in York, we were able to walk to our hotel and then go exploring.  York is lovely and quaint and full of narrow streets, all under the shadow of the York Minster Cathedral.   The streets outlying the cathedral are also famous.  The Shambles is one of the most photographed and popular streets in Europe.  It housed butcher shops.  According to our Lonely Planet guide: The Shambles takes its name from the Saxon word “shamel”, meaning “slaughterhouse”–in 1862 there were 26 butcher shops on this street.   It reminded us of a walk back in time.

York: A History Lesson

Ruled by the Romans, who left their lovely walls behind, and the Vikings, who left an infamous poo behind, York is the closest you will come to a stroll through the Middle Ages.  We didn’t get a chance to visit the poo in the Viking Museum; you must always save something for the next trip.  However, we soaked in York Minster.

The cathedral is breathtaking, described by the Lonely Plant as: the remarkable York Minster…largest medieval cathedral in all of northern Europe, and one of the world’s most beautiful Gothic buildings. Seat of the archbishop of York, primate of England, it is second in importance only to Canterbury…

When we were in London, we enjoyed an evensong service at St. Paul’s Cathedral and learned that the new bishop of London is a woman–Bishop Sarah Mullally.  A cathedral ceiling is shattered at last.

Edinburgh Castle

A natural fortification on one of the highest points in the old town, Edinburgh Castle called the city into being in the 11th century and still silhouettes its skyline like a sleeping dragon.  After you cross its moat and venture under it’s powerful gate, you find yourself in a small town on top of a rock.  It is a rock that houses the city’s oldest structure–St. Margaret’s Chapel, a sacred spot with tiny stained glass windows and an altar that still looks viable.   Across from St. Margaret’s, The Scottish National War Memorial reminded us more of a church than a hall to remember the fallen heroes of war, but it’s stained glass and sculpted walls tell the story of death and resurrection.  The cannons, the history and the chance to taste some mead may entice you up the hill, but you will also enjoy the views from every direction.   I will remember the dog cemetery, a patch of grass and small tombstones, honoring the beloved canines who served the brave soldiers of Scotland.

 

 

 

Corgis and Castles

Our full day in Edinburgh started with a visit to the Queen’s Botanical Garden.  Although it is early spring in Edinburgh–and from what we hear, the weather in Scotland is about fifty degrees and cloudy most of the time–the buds were popping and the crocus and the jonquils bloomed.  After our stroll through the gardens, we hopped over to Leith to see  the Britannia, Queen Elizabeth’s home on the seas.  It’s a grand ship full of Corgis.  They were everywhere, and while Karen enjoyed the ship–I hunted corgis.  We had our lovely soup and sandwiches onboard ship in Britannia’s tea room, and with renewed vigor set off to visit Holyrood, one of the two castles that border the Royal Mile.  It was a lovely day–though now I want a corgi!

 

 

 

 

Edinburgh

After a bare bones but lovely flight across the Atlantic to Scotland, our travelers find themselves hungry and exhausted.  The tram ride from the airport to the city center was quite easy and pleasant and costs only 6 pounds.  We even managed to read the map correctly (Karen is a great map reader) and get to the hotel.  They’ve been lovely and the room is clean and cozy.  We dropped our bags and headed for the recommended Italian restaurant around the corner which made a full on Scottish breakfast. After the long flight, I was up for some porridge and berries.  Karen ate eggs and mushrooms and baked beans.  Then we walked to the Hop On Hop Off bus and rode around in a happy daze.

We’re having a short respite and regrouping before we find a restaurant for dinner.  Edinburgh is lovely.  The people are wonderful and the daffodils are blooming!